Monthly Archives March 2014

Celebration of the ‘Madonuccia’ in Ajaccio, sincere fidelity annually on March 18th

A Madonuccia (Corsicathèque)

Certainly one of the most important dates where Ajaccio is concerned, for March 18th is a feast day celebrated annually in devotion to Our Lady of Mercy, Virgin of Savona and patron saint of the town. Going back to 1656, when the plague ravaged several regions of Italy, more precisely  from Genoese ships who carried it, the Council of Elders took the decision to place the town under her protection, pledging fidelity. They built a chapel in the cathedral in Ajaccio and took a lifelong commitment to celebrate annually the date of March 18th.

Ceremonies start the day before, on March 17th, when prayers and evening gatherings are organised, candles lit and masses celebrated...

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Boswell relates a conversation with Pascal Paoli

Pasquale Paoli Historia di Corsica(1)

I spoke to him about the alliance plan between Corsica and England. Paoli redirected this subject with refined politeness and dignity, answering: ‘less we rely on allies, greater will be our glory.’ ‘We may,’ he said, ‘have foreign powers as friends, provided that the distance is reasonable. We can build alliances, but we do not wish to be subject to any European nation, no matter whom it may concern. These people, who have achieved so much for their freedom, would prefer to be cut into pieces, man by man up to the very last, rather than see Corsica merge with some other countries land. Some years ago, false rumours spread, saying that I was going to cede Corsica to the emperor. At that point, a Corsican came to me with great emotion...

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When Flaubert narrates, words come to life; his arrival in Sagone

1779178_273650486125207_1815074255_nSagone B Luciani

‘It was then noon, as we skirted the edge of the sea following the path to the ancient city of Sagone. She was calm, with the sun giving it a lit azure appearance, becoming even clearer, with rays all around the rocks; flower-like diamond rings, and they shone brighter and more sparkling than the stars. The sea held a scent sweeter than the roses, we inhaled with delight, aspiring to the sun, the breeze, the view of the horizon, and the smell of myrtle – because these were happy days when the soul was open to the sun, the voyage and that supreme beauty within her fragrant flowers.

Imagine an orange cut in the middle, this is Corsica...

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10 choices of restaurants in (and around) Ajaccio

                                                                        Jean Exiga (3)

(random order)

l’Altru Versu – Corsican speciality, overlooking the sea

Les Sept Chapelles, rte des Sanguinaires

l’Amirauté, Amirauté Port – traditional, generous portions

Le Marché Gourmand – traditional, savoury and city centre
59, bis rue Fesch

Le 20/20
– traditional and ‘right in town’

1, avenue Pascal Paoli

A Nepita – traditional, city centre

4, rue San Lazaro

Le 20123
– Corsican speciality + music
2, rue Roi de Rome
Le Piano, chez Toinou – Corsican + traditional, cosy setting
20166 Porticcio
l’Auberge du Prunelli – Corsican + traditional, country setting
20129 Bastelicaccia
A Casetta – Corsican speciality + trad...
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Veal with olives


A classic, where you really cannot go wrong and always welcomed. Veal, with tasty vegetables and that little extra ingredient that makes all the difference – olives. I think I could prepare this particular dish, eyes closed, I’ve chosen it so many times!

(serves 4)
Preparation: 5mins

Cooking: 1.30h

– 1200grs veal (cut in pieces)
– 2 shallots
– 2 tomatoes
– 2 carrots
– tomato concentrate
– 200grs bacon strips
– green olives
– thyme, bay leaf, salt, pepper, garlic, olive oil, flour
– 2 litres of veal stock
– 1 good size glass of red wine
Prepare the veal stock. Brown the shallots in olive oil, and add the sliced carrots. Salt the veal, and add to brown.
Mix with 1 soup spoonful of tomato concentrate, and some flour...
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